Here is my basic, generic sock pattern:

cuff and leg:

Cast on 52 stitches over two needles (size 2 dpn’s).
Knit 2 Purl 2 ribbing, divide the stitches over 4 needles
Join, being careful not to twist.
Continue rib pattern for 1 inch.
Switch to stockinette for entire leg portion of sock (2 – 5 inches)

create heel flap:

Using 1/2 of stitches now, ignore 2 needles.
Stockinette across 26 stitches until you have a perfect square (k 1 row, p 1 row)

turn heel:

**(slip first stitch in each row)**
Knit across to last 7 stitches, turn work
Purl across to last 7 stitches, turn work
Knit across to gap, knit 2 stitches on each side of gap together, turn work
Purl across to gap, purl 2 stitches on each side of gap together, turn work
Repeat last two rows until only 12 stitches remain. (heel is now turned)

gusset:

End heel turn with knit row. pick up stitches along side to instep stitches, k across instep, pick up stitches along other side to heel.
Return to knitting in the round.

1. k 1 row *place marker at center of heel stitches*
2. k across heel and picked up stitches. K2together at beginning of instep, k across instep. K2together through back loop at end of instep, k back to marker.

repeat rows 1 and 2 until 52 stitches.

foot:

Knit in stockinette to length of foot minus 1 inch. (7.5 inches in my case)

toe:

k2 together on each side of foot (toe decreases) every row for one inch (try sock on to make sure it fits!)

Bind off using three needle bind off.

Repeat for second sock.

Glossary:

K – knit
P – purl
Mc – Main color
Sc – Second color
Kfb – Knit into the front and back of the stitch

Supplies:         

• Set of 5 dpn’s size 2
• 16” size 2 circs
• 2 balls Cascade 220 in two different colors
• tapestry needle

Gauge:            

• 6 stitches, 9 rows per inch

Section One:

**Kfb of first stitch on each needle every row this section (increasing by 4 stitches every round for 34 rounds)**

C/O 4 stitches in main color (mc)
K onto dpn’s (must be a set of 5 needles)
K 6 rnds
Second color (sc), K 3 rnds
Mc K 4 rnds
*K 1 mc, K 1 sc* repeat to end of rnd
Mc K 3 rnds
Sc K 2 rnds
*Mc K 2, Sc K 2* repeat to end of rnd
K Sc 1 rnd
*Mc K 2, Sc K 2* repeat to end of rnd
Sc K 2 rnds
Mc K 3 rnds
Sc K 1 rnd
Mc K 3 rnds
Sc K 2 rnd
*Mc K 2, Sc K 2* repeat to end of rnd = 35 stitches on each of 4 needles = 140 stitches total

Section Two:

Sc P 1 rnd (switch to circular needles here).  PM at end of rnd.
Sc K 1 rnd
*Mc K 1, Sc K 1* repeat 2 rnds
(*Sc K 2, Mc K 2* to end of rnd
Mc K 1, *Sc K 2, Mc K 2* to end of rnd
*Mc K 2, Sc K 2* to end of rnd
Sc K 1, *Mc K 2, Sc K 2* to end of rnd) makes a 4 rnd diagonal stripe
Sc K 2 rnds
Mc K 1 rnd
Sc K 2 rnds
Mc K 2 P 2 ribbing 4 rnds
B/O loosely in Mc

Finishing: 

Weave in ends
Block to flat top and straight sides.

Notes: 

The beginning is a bit fiddly until you have 6 or so stitches on each needle.  It will look like a nipple or breast as you work on it.  Trust the math.  Once it is blocked, it will be a flat circle.  Trust the math.

I blocked it over a set of salad plates.  Soup bowls would also work.  Basically anything round a flat at its 8 inch diameter will work for blocking.

 Completed Yarmulke is 8 inches across and 2 inches down on the sides.  This fits both me (with an average size head), and my fiancé (with a very large head).  It should fit snugly over the crown of the head.

 I used leftover wool for this pattern, partial balls to begin with and I still have leftovers.  This is a great stash reduction project.